Hairology part 3 – PROTEINS & AMINO ACIDS for hair

Proteins make up an extremely important group of ingredients. They are the building block of hair – a sequence of amino acids. Proteins reinforce the resilience of hair and keep hair from quick damage.Let me use a metaphor; proteins are like a renovation crew and its main task is fixing all flaws and destruction inside hair.

The protein team fulfils two functions. Depending on the size of particles, proteins can:

• smooth hair by creating a microscopic protective layer on its surface (larger proteins)
• repair damage inside hair and on its surface (small proteins, so-called hydrolized proteins)

Macromolecular proteins (large particles)

They work great for high porosity hair with large gaps in the cuticle layer. Thick low porosity hair can be weighed down with this type of protein (overproteined hair). Macromolecular proteins love to lie on hair, creating a protective occlusive layer on its surface for smoothness and increased shine. The group of macromolecular proteins includes:

• Milk Proteins
• Silk Proteins
• Wheat Proteins
• Oats Proteins
• Corn Proteins
• Rice Proteins
• Soy Proteins
• Collagen
• Elastin
• Keratin

Hydrolized proteins

Large proteins can be split by hydrolysis. Consequently, small particles come into being – they can penetrate hair structure and repair any damage (fix hair structure). Hydrolized proteins gift hair with elasticity, vitality, bounce and resistance to damage. Small particles of such proteins are suitable for all hair types – from low to high porosity. Hydrolized proteins:

• Hydrolized Keratin
• Hydrolized Silk
• Hydrolized Elastin
• Hydrolized Milk Protein
• Hydrolized Wheat Protein

How do you know your hair lacks proteins?

The deficit of keratin - the building block of hair - is clearly visible. Hair is thin, unruly, lifeless and extremely hard to manage. It lacks energy and bounce. Protein is essential for damaged, color-treated and over-processed hair. It also must be delivered if you keep heat-styling your hairdo. The more damaging factors your hair faces up to, the more proteins it needs to keep hair structure untouched.

Protein Overload – What Is It?

The right hair care needs balance in the delivered ingredients. The deficiency and excess of a given substance can be equally bad for your hairdo. Hair is overproteined when it got too much protein in relation to other ingredients provided. The balance of emollients, humectants and proteins is disturbed. Proteins make use of their ability to absorb water and start absorbing it from the inside of hair as well. As a result, hair is stiff, dry, rough and frizzy. Instead of gaining elasticity, it is brittle and fragile.

The good news is you can quickly rinse protein out of your hair. Just use a stronger shampoo, preferably a cleansing one to remove the protein overload. Next, do a hair oil treatment – the oil’s particles weaken the action of proteins. To avoid the protein overload, a regular hair oiling is a great solution.

Even Smaller Than Proteins… - Amino Acids

While discussing proteins, we must mention the role of tiny amino acids in hair care. They are like small bricks building protein. The amino acid structures stimulate quicker hair growth and hinder thinning. There are SIX essential amino acids that must be delivered to enjoy strong, thick and beautiful hair:

• Arginin (and its active form – L-arginin) – boosts hair growth because it stimulates the synthesis of nitrogen oxide – it is essential so hair follicles can produce hair stem.
• Metionin – sulfuric amino acid that makes up hair structure, affects hair growth and general condition. Metionin is an exogenous amino acid – the body cannot produce it so you must deliver the acid with food.
• Cysteine – an endogenous amino acid – produced by the body. It is able to considerably speed up hair growth.
• Cystine – largely improves hair resilience; it makes hair firmly rooted in follicles.
• Tyrozin – the body uses it to produce melanin (hair pigment). Its deficiency stops hair growth and causes hair greying and thinning.
• Taurin – an amino acid stored in hair bulbs. Without taurin, hair grows thin and lacks volume. Taurin inhibits hair loss.